Waking at 6am at the Toaster House, I grabbed my pack and headed down stairs to the kitchen to make coffee and repack my food. Twisted joined me and we chatted with a few other hikers about which route to take. We decided to take an alternate route through Armijo Canyon which avoided the other option – a long highway walk. But there would be more highway to be sure… then a second alternate over El Malpais, Spanish for “The Badlands,” before walking through Benito (Spanish for “Nice”) canyon, and then a few road miles into Grants.
We said goodbye to Collin and Andrea and in a few miles down York Ranch road heading north, caught up to Shadow and Mouse. We walked about 16 miles before finding the Thomas’ property where we accessed a spigot to a spring for good water. Hiking another six miles to a solar powered cattle tank we filled up and found camp in some big winds and were treated to a fantastic New Mexico sunset.
The next day was another four miles on York Ranch road before heading east into Armijo canyon where we explored some old Anasazi ruins reported to be 600-800 years old. In another few miles was another site and a rock with a small petroglyph. Leaving, we were caught up to by a group of young 20-something Nimbles, Dirt Bag, and 50, all of whom we’d met at the Toaster House a few days before.
We climbed a short few switchbacks, descended through Sand canyon, and soon were walking out of the nicely wooded canyon into windy territory once again. We skipped a water source before reaching highway 117. A bit cranky, a bit tired, and a bit hungry, I wondered aloud why I’d gone with the group decision to skip the water, as the next source we had info on didn’t exist. After a half mile down the highway we found a solar well and great water coming out of a well via a pipe and took a break before pounding five more miles of pavement and stopping at a picnic area with four shelters and a pit toilet. We camped under the shelter cowboy style and had a nice dinner session with access to a comfortable bench to cook and relax on.
The next day we were on pavement again. Thankfully this section was new asphalt and the wind was at our backs. We passed La Ventana Natural Arch and another picnic area then made our way to the Acoma-Zuni trail head where we found a water cache maintained by Carol Mumm who I believe is in Grants. After a break we headed through The Badlands of the El Malpais National Monument.
The going was slow, picking our way over ancient lava flows which are part of the enormous volcanic activity surrounding the Colorado Plateau. Much of this volcanic geology we are now hiking through all the way past Mount Taylor and eventually into the south San Juan mountains as we enter southwest Colorado in a few weeks.
After three and a half hours we finally made it through the seven mile stretch and took another break where the trail crossed over highway 53. We entered Benito canyon and walked along a very nice dirt road another three miles to a huge windmill and well where we would fill up our last water before reaching Grants – a 20+ mile stretch. Soon after, Shadow and Mouse were slowing down. I had gobbled a few ibuprofen – or “Vitamin I” in hikerspeak – and felt good. Twisted took a short break and I hiked ahead. After gaining the highest point through the canyon I began a gentle decent through nice wooded forest. Around 6pm I spotted Nimbles, Dirtbag and 50 (50 also from Seattle, WA), far in the distance and I decided I’d run them down ;). After another 45 minutes I passed them as they pulled off what was now a gravel road down the canyon. I chatted briefly as they set up camp then continued on. I passed two other hikers I recognized from the Toaster House as they were setting up camp. I hiked on. About 7:45 pm I’d had enough and I stopped just short of where the gravel road turned to pavement and set up a quick cowboy camp, cooked and went to sleep.
I knew it would happen as I said it earlier in the day: at 4am it started to rain. I reached into my pack and grabbed my tent, throwing it over me like a giant duvet cover to keep dry. After 30 minutes of sleep, then 30 more tossing and turning, I packed up and was hiking at 5:30am. I passed by some pretty shitty trailers and low income housing with chained up dogs, NO TRESSPASS signs, and several cars passing by on their way to work. I crossed over Interstate 40 at 8am, flipped the bird at the McDonalds, and continuted to First Street Cafe to eat an awesome breakfast.
After downing a hot meal I heard from Twisted who made it to the Cafe about an hour or so later. Before he arrived my waitress told me that a local patron had bought my meal. Delighted and surprised I turned to thank everyone – all four of them – in the cafe. Twisted ate, I had more coffee and we headed to the post office to pick up some packages we each had waiting for us. We walked down Santa Fe street which was a broken, rundown shell of itself in it’s former 1950’s glory. Arriving at The Sands Motel, we entered our rundown – but friendly priced 🙂 – flop to shower and relax. We heard from Shadow and Mouse mid day who also got a room at The Sands and we all went out to a family Mexican restaurant, El Cafecito. Afterwards, we patronized The Outlaw bar where we ran into and talked with Rabbit and Leopard, the latter whom was enjoying a day off completely.
In the morning Twisted and I sadly said goodbye to Shadow and Mouse. I called my wife and expected to hit the trail late day after some errands. After we ate breakfast at El Cafecito, Twisted was lacking motivation and said he’d spring for a second night at the hotel. So, not planning to zero in Grants, we took a zero day and I found the public library to access a computer (…and a real keyboard… can I get an Amen 🙂 and then went by the Mining Museum. The four of us ordered pizza and had beer at the motel, said goodnight and Twisted and I would be off in the morning heading closer towards the south San Juan mountains and our next leg and resupply in Cuba, New Mexico.
Go Steel Go!!!